Like many of you, I woke up the morning of Wednesday, November 9, feeling a little stunned. Shocked. Baffled. Nervous about the future. After months of contentious election coverage, I wasn't really in the mood for more continuous negativity, which pretty much surrounds us nowadays. The solution, load up the van and head for the mountains. Donette was in Portland for a little mother-daughter time, so it was just Luna and I.
Now, where to go? With only a 3 day weekend, I didn't want to set my sights too far. With some brand new tires on the van, I searched out some off-highway choices. I came across Dove Springs Canyon road, which traverses the mountains south of Weldon and ends up at the Jawbone Canyon OHV area. It didn't look too difficult, a plus since I was traveling alone. I left late Thursday evening, spent the night near the Kern River at Lake Isabella, and headed for the trailhead Friday morning.
The Lake Isabella area had been hit hard by wildfires this year, and there were large areas of devastation. Many homes remained intact with the surrounding areas burned.
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Burned Joshua forest |
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Badly burned tree |
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This property wasn't so lucky, with a pile of charred treasures |
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Not sure what business is being transacted out here. |
The trailhead was well marked, and the road was pretty smooth, although quite sandy in places. Since it was down in the bottom of the canyon, I took the opportunity to climb a nearby ridge, hiking up about 900' above the road to get some exercise and better views. It was dead calm, and incredibly quiet. Only the occasional birdsong broke the absolute silence. Ahhh!
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Airing down the tires to start the dirt section |
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Trailhead was well marked and easy to find |
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Nice, smooth sandy road, for the most part |
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The road gradually climbs to the low saddle in the middle of the picture |
After hiking back to the van and resuming the drive, I did start to see a few fellow off-roaders, usually on motorcycles. However, in 20 miles I only saw 4 groups, so not very crowded at all. At the top of the pass, about 5,200, the road crosses the Pacific Crest Trail. There is a nice pullout there with a picnic table, so it made a good rest stop. I pulled out the bike and, resisting the urge to ride the PCT, rode up a side road instead. It was steep and sandy, making it quite challenging. After a little out and back I returned to the van to find a group of three motorcyclists. They were a little surprised to see me ride up on a mountian bike!
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The PCT heading off into the desert hills |
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One big pipeline headed to LA on the Eastern side near Jawbone Canyon |
After completing the drive, I headed up 395 to Lone Pine. My goal was to camp at the end of a dirt road that heads up to the Tuttle Creek trailhead. I had been there once before, in the late spring, to attempt a ski descent of Mt. Langley. That turned out to be an extremely challenging adventure, and this time I was on a more relaxed pace to just spend some time in the mountains. The road was in pretty good shape until 1 mile from the end. Someone had gotten stuck there and chewed up the road in a narrow, rocky section. I made one attempt to get past, but with the van teetering on three wheels as it tried to climb over the rocks and thru the holes, I decided not to push it and backed down to a nice large campsite at about 6,600', with expansive views of the Owens Valley. That night we were treated to another calm evening and a beautiful moonrise.
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End of the road at Tuttle Creek |
Saturday I hiked up the trail to the old stone ashram, nestled in the woods at about 8,000'. It brought back memories of Nepal, thinking about all the labor to build a stone and wood house miles from the end of the road. There were gorgeous views outside each window, and surprisingly little vandalism or graffiti. The morning sun was just hitting the bottom of the canyon as I arrived, so I spent some time there stretching and soaking up the warmth. I then followed a slight use trail higher up the drainage. The last time I was here this area was covered in weak, crumbling snow, and we continuously punched thru the barely covered brush. Skis on or skis off, it was a sufferfest of a climb. This time was much easier, as it was relatively easy to find a clear path thru the shrubbery and up the steep slope.
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Tuttle Creek trail, Mount Langely in the distance |
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The Ashram |
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Great views from every window |
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You can barely see it when approaching from above |
After about 3 hours of hiking I had covered about 4 miles and gained over 3,000' of elevation. I decided that was plenty for the day. After a snack I retraced my steps, and encountered a few fellow hikers making their way to the ashram. It appears to be a somewhat popular hike, but judging from the faintness of the trail above the ashram, it also seems like most people turn around there.
Back at the van I loaded up and descended to explore the Alabama Hills. I have driven past them many times, but never really got off the main road to look around. It was a very popular destination this weekend, and every nook and cranny was filled with climbers, campers, motorcyclists, and day hikers. I drove further and further out on the main road, looking for an uncrowded spot. I cam across a side road with signage saying not suitable for cars or pick-ups, but 4x4's only. Sounds promising! It turned out to be easily passable by almost any car, but hey, if the sign kept the crowds down that was great. I found a nice cozy campsite with two low rocks guarding the entry. The van would just barely squeeze between them - perfect!

I pulled out the bike to do a little exploring, and came across a singletrack trail cutting right thru the middle of the Hills. It was pretty loose and sandy, and made for tough riding. I did get to enjoy the beautiful golden glow of sunset at 3:30 in the afternoon. The sun disappears early when there is a 14,000 monolith between you and the west.
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Evening light in mid afternoon |
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The real sunset, at the appropriate time |
Luna loved the rocks near camp, and excitedly scampered up and down, sniffing out all the caves and crevices filled with rodent poop. She is quite the climber with her four claw grip, and the rough, textured rock let her ascend virtually vertical faces.
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Of course, the first thing you have to do after getting out of the van is roll in the sand to get a complete covering of dust... |
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Then explore all the little caves and crevices... |
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Discover that this rock is really grippy... |
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And stare off into the desert from the highest point around. |
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While I enjoyed the campfire |
Sunday morning I rode the bike a little further up the sandy motorcycle trail, then returned to pack up. I decided to explore another road I have never traveled, and left 395 and headed up towards Kennedy Meadows and Sherman Pass. Traffic was virtually nil, and I pretty much had the road to myself as I climbed quickly from the desert floor. A little past Kennedy Meadows is the Blackrock recreation area. I couldn't believe all of the motorcycle and mountain biking trails in this area. Lot's of dirt roads for access to the trailheads as well. I sense another trip here in the near future to explore some of these trails and camping areas.
The air quality in the Owens Valley seemed quite good, but as I headed into the heart of the Southern Sierra it got worse and worse. I took a side dirt road up to the Bald Mountain Lookout, and the air was hazy with smoke. I hadn't heard of any recent fires, but something was obviously burning. Approaching Sherman Pass visibility was down to just a few miles. On the descent into the Kern River valley, I finally saw the source, and a large fire was burning high up above Johnsondale.
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Bald Mountain Lookout |
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Pano to the south, Domelands barely visible in the haze |
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The hazy view from Sherman Pass |
This drive was not the quickest way to the Eastern Sierra, but it was the quietest. In the 70+ miles from 395 to Kernville I only saw a dozen cars. In the future, I would only take this route if I had time to stop and spend the night enroute, as it was much too long in the van for a single day.
After 3 days of peace and quiet it was back to radio, newspapers, and political conversation. It is encouraging to see many people trying to push past the negativity and move forward. It is equally terrifying to see some of the bigotry and hatred now being openly displayed. I am confident that our nation will eventually get back on the right path and continue to move forward, but it won't be easy. In the meantime, it is comforting to know that all it takes is a tank of fuel and a few hours behind the wheel and you can get lost in the majestic beauty of what really makes this country great.
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